Sa 22 Aug → Su 6 Sep 2026 · Jo + Ja

Großglockner & the sea

The summit is booked. Two decisions left: the warm-up trek before it, the sea week after it. Pick one of each below.

Pasterze & Großglockner · Wikimedia Commons
Booked ✓ Guided ascent (Weg der Erstbesteiger) 27–28 Aug, 2 pers. Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte 27 Aug (via guide office) Salmhütte 26 + 28 Aug Guide meets us at the Salmhütte, Thu 27 Aug 11:00–13:00
Interactive plan

Pick a trek, pick a sea

Nothing is pre-selected; the summit days in the middle are fixed either way. Details for every option are in the cards below.

Trek
Sea

Picks are saved in the page address — copy the URL to share an exact combination.

Pins are town-level. Faint pins = candidates; the line lights up for your current combination.

Decision one · Sa 22 → We 26 Aug

The warm-up trek

All four sleep high enough for acclimatisation, run three-plus contiguous hiking days, and reach the Salmhütte meeting on time. They differ in hut cosiness, wildness, and car logistics.

Trek A · Virgental south side · the friend's tip

Lasörling Höhenweg

Four days on the sunny side of the Virgental with the Venediger glaciers as a permanent backdrop. Small, personal huts — two of them sit right at mountain lakes — and an optional 3,000 m summit, the Lasörling.

3 hut + 1 valley nightssleeps up to 2,350 m 3–6 h daysred/black marked trails Lasörling 3,098 moptional summit day 2 ~€760huts + hotel, 2 pers. Routekomoot · virgental.at
Day plan, photos & caveats
  • Sa 22Drive Wien → Virgen (~4¾ h), walk up via Wetterkreuzhütte to the Zupalseehütte (2,350 m) at its lake.
  • Su 23Panorama traverse to the Lasörlinghütte (3 h) — out-and-back to the Lasörling, 3,098 m (~4½–5 h, easy scrambling near the top) — our acclimatisation summit, weather permitting.
  • Mo 24Past the Bergersee to the Lasnitzenhütte (~4½ h), the gentlest day.
  • Tu 25Over the Michltalscharte to the Neue Reichenberger Hütte (2,586 m) at the Bödensee, descend to Ströden (6–6½ h). Bus back to the car, drive to Heiligenblut — shower, real bed (Nationalpark Lodge or Hotel Kärntnerhof).
  • We 26Up the Leitertal to the Salmhütte (~5 h) on the first-ascenders' route.
Zupalseehütte
Zupalseehütte above the Virgental
Lasörling from Kreuzspitze
Lasörling, 3,098 m
Bergersee-Hütte
Bergersee-Hütte
Neue Reichenberger Hütte
Neue Reichenberger Hütte, 2,586 m

Fit: altitude good (sleeps 1,900–2,350 m + a 3,000er) · days 4 contiguous · huts the cosiest lineup of the four · logistics simple (1¼ h drive to Heiligenblut)

Time-critical: the Neue Reichenberger Hütte is nearly full 22–26 Aug (1 free bed on 22.08 as of 5 Jul — 100-year anniversary weekend). If A wins, book it first, today. The full first stage from Matrei is 8 h / 1,630 hm — we skip that by starting from Virgen. Zupalsee- and Lasörlinghütte have private rooms (~€66–79 p.p. half board); Lasnitzenhütte books by email (lasnitzenhuette@gmx.at), prices unpublished. Zupalsee, Lasnitzen: cash only.

Trek B · Virgental north side · the glacier balcony

Venediger Höhenweg Süd

The glacier side of the same valley: two passes near 2,800–2,950 m, four hut nights, and the last one at the Sajathütte, rebuilt with proper rooms at 2,600 m.

4 hut nightssleeps up to 2,600 m 2½–4½ h daysone big final day Zopetscharte 2,958 mhighest walking point ~€620huts, 2 pers. Routekomoot · alpenvereinaktiv
Day plan, photos & caveats
  • Sa 22Drive Wien → Ströden (~5 h), warm-up walk to the Essener-Rostocker Hütte (2,208 m, 2½ h).
  • Su 23Over the Türmljoch (2,772 m) to the Johannishütte (2,121 m, ~4 h) under the Großvenediger.
  • Mo 24Across the Zopetscharte (2,958 m) to the Eisseehütte (~4½ h; the descent is rope-secured for the first stretch).
  • Tu 25Short balcony leg via the Prägratner Höhenweg ("das Fenster") to the Sajathütte (2,600 m, ~2½ h) — real beds, free afternoon.
  • We 26The big day: down to Prägraten early (~2½ h), drive to Heiligenblut, up the Leitertal to the Salmhütte (~5 h).
Sajathütte
Sajathütte, 2,600 m
Essener-Rostocker Hütte
Essener-Rostocker Hütte, Maurertal
Großvenediger from the Johannishütte
Großvenediger from the Johannishütte
Dorfertal with Johannishütte
Dorfertal, Johannishütte

Fit: altitude strong (sleeps 2,100–2,600 m, walks to 2,958 m) · days 4 contiguous · huts Sajathütte has private rooms · logistics Wednesday stacks descent + drive + 5 h ascent

The old Johannishütte → Sajathütte shortcut is permanently closed after rockfall — this plan routes the Sajathütte from the Eissee side, the standard connection. Zopetscharte wants good conditions. Booking quirks: Johannishütte is phone-only (+43 4877 5150), Lager only, hut sleeping bag mandatory; the Eisseehütte has exactly one double room (~€81 p.p. HP, cash only); Sajathütte double with half board €81 p.p.

Trek C · Schobergruppe · walks straight into the meeting point

Wiener Höhenweg

Five days through the wildest, emptiest corner of the Hohe Tauern — blocky cirques, lake-side huts, hardly a soul. No car shuffling, no valley interlude, no shower either.

4 hut nights + booked Salmhüttesleeps up to 2,508 m 2½–7 h daysSAC grade T3, partly cable-secured Keeskopf 3,081 moptional en route ~€600huts, 2 pers. Routealpenvereinaktiv · bergwelten
Day plan, photos & caveats
  • Sa 22To Lienz (train or car), bus to Iselsberg, up to the Winklerner Hütte (2½ h) — gentle start.
  • Su 23Over the Seescharte to the Wangenitzseehütte (2,508 m, 4 h), the highest lake basin in the group.
  • Mo 24To the Adolf-Noßberger-Hütte (4 h, grade T3) — the Keeskopf, 3,081 m is right there if legs agree.
  • Tu 25Key stage over the Hornscharte to the Elberfelder Hütte (5 h).
  • We 26Long finale: Glorer Hütte → Berger Törl → Salmhütte (~7 h).
Wangenitzsee and hut
Wangenitzseehütte, 2,508 m
Adolf-Noßberger-Hütte above the Gradensee
Noßberger Hütte above the Gradensee
Schobergruppe panorama
Schobergruppe
Glorer Hütte
Glorer Hütte in the Berger Törl

Fit: altitude strong (five straight nights above 1,900 m) · days 5 contiguous · huts wild & simple rather than cosy · logistics no car moves — the trek is the approach

The most demanding option: grade-T3 terrain daily, five hut nights back-to-back, and the last day is the longest. If a storm eats a day there's no slack before the guide meeting.

Trek D · Kals · shortest, sleeps highest, neatest car loop

Stüdlhütte balcony

Keep the weekend in Vienna, then two nights at 2,802 m directly under the Glockner's south face — sleep-high acclimatisation — and stroll over the Berger Törl to the Salmhütte. After the tour we descend the same way to the car.

2 hut nightsboth at 2,802 m · Lager only 2½–4 h dayseasiest of the four Car loopLucknerhaus → Lucknerhaus ~€460huts + pension, 2 pers. Routeoutdooractive (Stüdl → Glorer leg)
Day plan, photos & caveats
  • Sa 22Free weekend in Vienna — pack properly, sleep in our own bed.
  • Su 23Drive Wien → Kals am Großglockner (~5 h), pension night.
  • Mo 24Lucknerhaus → Stüdlhütte (2,802 m, 2½ h). Afternoon on the moraine paths.
  • Tu 25Day tour above the hut (towards the Fanatkogel, 2,905 m), second night at altitude.
  • We 26Over Berger Törl → Glorer Hütte → Salmhütte (~3½–4 h, some wire-secured passages).
Stüdlhütte
Stüdlhütte, 2,802 m
Großglockner from Lucknerhaus
The south face from the Lucknerhaus car park
Ködnitztal
Ködnitztal meadows
Ibex at the Stüdlhütte
The neighbours

Fit: altitude two nights at 2,802 m — highest sleeping of all · days 3 contiguous, on the short side · huts modern, excellent kitchen · logistics one parking spot, walk in, walk out

Less of a journey, more of a base camp — if "Hüttentour" means covering ground, this isn't it. Only shines with a car (the loop is the point).

Fixed · Th 27 → Sa 29 Aug · booked ✓

The summit days

Meet the guide at the Salmhütte Thursday 11:00–13:00, sleep at 3,454 m, stand on 3,798 m at dawn on Friday.

  • Th 27Salmhütte, 11:00–13:00: gear handover (helmet, harness, crampons included), then roped ascent to the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (3,454 m), ~3½ h. Austria's highest hut; short night.
  • Fr 28Pre-dawn start. Glocknerleitl, Kleinglockner, the Scharte — summit 3,798 m. Down to the Salmhütte by early afternoon; second booked night, no rush.
  • Sa 29Easy descent (Leitertal to Heiligenblut ~3 h, or Berger Törl to Lucknerhaus ~3 h, or Stockerscharte to Glocknerhaus ~3 h — matches wherever the car is, or the bus).
Salmhütte
Salmhütte, 2,644 m — booked 26 + 28 Aug
Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte on the Adlersruhe
Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte, 3,454 m
Kleinglockner from the Adlersruhe
Kleinglockner from the Adlersruhe
Glocknerleitl
The Glocknerleitl, summit day

Numbers for the cash envelope: guiding €430 p.p. + guide's half-board share €22.80 p.p. + EJH half-board ~€95 p.p. + Salmhütte ~€83 p.p./night with Alpenverein card. All paid in cash on the mountain — roughly €1,450 for the two of us. Guide contact arrives 4–7 days ahead; he has the final word on routing and weather.

Decision two · Sa 29 Aug → Su 6 Sep

The sea week

It forks on who comes: the two of us → Italy-with-good-sea or a Greek island; if Papa, Jakob, Raphi and the baby join → Croatia wins on convenience. The brief: a genuinely nice beach, natural shade, shell-and-pebble walks, a town worth an evening, serious coffee.

Just the two of usquality sea, night train or flight welcome
Sea 1 · Johanna's night-train idea, finished properly

Nightjet south: Rome, then Procida & Ischia

A night train south, two days in Rome, then an hour past Naples to pastel Procida and thermal Ischia. Lemon gardens for shade, volcanic coves for swimming.

Car-freeNightjet via Wien (2026 reroute) Sea ~25 °CTyrrhenian, early Sept Shadegardens, pines, thermal parks CoffeeNaples espresso culture ~€1,900–2,4002 pers., trains + 7 nights
Day plan, photos & caveats
  • Sa 29Descend, bus to Lienz, Railjet 15:17 → Wien 20:36. Own bed, repack.
  • Su 30Board the Nightjet, Wien 20:05. 2026 track works reroute it via the Brenner with a morning change in Bologna — Roma ~10:58.
  • Mo–TuRome from ~11:00: Pantheon, Trastevere evenings, Sant'Eustachio coffee. Two nights, no museum marathon.
  • We 2Frecciarossa Roma → Napoli (1 h 10), ferry to Procida or Ischia.
  • Th–FrIsland days: Chiaiolella beach, Ischia's thermal gardens, boat around the coves, granita, books.
  • Sa 5Full island day — the direct return night train doesn't run during the track works.
  • Su 6Fly Napoli → Wien (~1¾ h, Austrian daily) — or Sa-evening train to Bologna and the Nightjet from there.
Marina Corricella, Procida
Marina Corricella, Procida
Sant'Angelo, Ischia
Sant'Angelo, Ischia — car-free
Maronti beach, Ischia
Maronti beach, Ischia
Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere
Trastevere, the Rome stop

Stay (ballparks, not 2026 quotes) — Procida: La Corricella (in the harbour, ~€140–190) or La Tonnara (on Chiaiolella beach); Ischia: Casa Celestino (car-free Sant'Angelo) or Apollon (inside the thermal park); Rome: Villa della Fonte (Trastevere).

Fit: beach real swimming, volcanic sand + pebble coves · shade natural · town Rome + island villages · chill two island moves; pick ONE island to fix that

2026 wrinkle: the Tarvisio line is closed 22 Aug–20 Sep, so no Villach boarding and no direct return — outbound goes via Wien/Brenner with a Bologna change; come home by plane or via Bologna. Already bookable: nightjet.com (2-bed sleeper from ~€178); island ferries frequent, ~06:00–22:00 (Caremar/SNAV from Molo Beverello). Early September: islands noticeably calmer than August.

Sea 2 · the best water on this page

A Greek island — Corfu, say

Fly from Vienna and buy the clearest sea of any option: olive-shaded pebble coves on Corfu's north-east, slow tavernas, and exactly nothing on the programme.

Fly via WienAustrian daily + Ryanair Tu/Fr/Su Sea ~25 °CIonian, glass-clear Shadeolive groves to the waterline Pebble walksJohanna's collecting habitat ~€1,800–2,5002 pers., flights + 6 nights
Day plan, photos & caveats
  • Sa 29Descend, afternoon Railjet Lienz → Wien (15:17, ~5¼ h). Own bed, repack from crampons to flip-flops.
  • Su 30Fly Wien → Corfu: Ryanair Su 09:20→12:10 or Austrian daily (~1¾ h). Zakynthos/Kos work too.
  • Mo–FrSix nights, one base: Kalami / Agios Stefanos side. Swim, read, taverna, repeat. One boat day around the coves.
  • Su 6Fly home.
Barbati beach, Corfu
Barbati beach, NE coast
Kassiopi harbour
Kassiopi harbour
Kassiopi bay
Kassiopi
Corfu old town and fortress
Corfu Town, one evening

Stay — White House Apartments (above the Durrell taverna, Kalami) or Frosso Apartments (~€90–130, pool in the olives); budget: Nissaki Sea View.

Fit: beach outstanding · shade olives + tavernas · town Corfu Town (UNESCO) for one evening · chill maximum once there · logistics 1½ travel days each way counts against the week

Sa evening + Su are pure transit, so it is a 6-night week. September schedules thin out — check flights before deciding.

Sea 3 · new-to-both Italy

Puglia — Polignano & Monopoli

Johanna wants new spots in Italy. Fly to Bari, base in Monopoli's whitewashed old town, swim in Adriatic water that has nothing in common with Grado's, day-trip to Polignano's cliff coves and the Valle d'Itria. Best food-per-euro on the page.

Fly via Wien~1½ h to Bari Sea ~25 °Cclear south Adriatic TownsMonopoli, Polignano, Ostuni Coffeeespresso freddo culture ~€1,700–2,3002 pers., flights + 6 nights
Day plan, photos & caveats
  • Sa 29Descend, train Lienz → Wien.
  • Su 30Fly Wien → Bari (Ryanair 06:10 daily or Austrian Su morning, ~1½ h), local train to Monopoli (30 min).
  • Mo–FrCala Porta Vecchia mornings, old-town evenings. One day Polignano a Mare, one day inland (Ostuni or the trulli), rest: beach.
  • Su 6Fly home.
Lama Monachile, Polignano a Mare
Lama Monachile, Polignano
Monopoli old town on the sea
Monopoli old town
Monopoli harbour
The old harbour
Ostuni
Ostuni, day-trip

Stay — La Porta Vecchia (~€150–170, steps from the town beach), Santa Maria 24 apartments, or Don Ferrante as the sea-wall splurge.

Fit: beach lovely coves + sand nearby · shade town yes, beaches are umbrella country · town several gems · chill high · logistics same 1½-day backtrack as Greece

Natural shade is the weak point — Puglia’s beaches are open. If the shade requirement is hard, S1 or S2 serve it better. Flights: Wien → Bari.

Sea 4 · the car-compatible Italy wildcard

Elba

If we want the car with us and still refuse to compromise on water: drive down through the Dolomites, hop the one-hour ferry at Piombino, and spend the week cove-hopping an island where pine forest reaches the pebbles.

By car~7 h + 1 h ferry Sea ~25 °CTuscan archipelago Shadepines to the beach edge Pebble + sand covescollecting paradise ~€1,500–2,0002 pers., ferry + 6 nights
Day plan, photos & caveats
  • Sa 29Descend to the car, drive south, sleep around Verona/Bologna.
  • Su 30On to Piombino, ferry to Portoferraio, settle on the west coast (Marciana Marina side).
  • Mo–FrA different cove every day — Paolina, Sansone, Fetovaia — plus one Monte Capanne cable-car evening for the full-circle mountain view of the sea.
  • Sa 5Ferry back, drive to South Tyrol, last mountain dinner.
  • Su 6Home over the Brenner.
Paolina beach, Elba
Paolina and its islet
Fetovaia bay
Fetovaia
Sansone beach
Sansone — white pebbles
Marciana Marina
Marciana Marina, the base

Stay — Hotel Marinella (on the Marciana Marina promenade, ~€120–230), Marina Garden (shaded garden + pool), or Hotel del Golfo on Procchio's sand, 2 km from the Paolina cove.

Fit: beach superb · shade pines, the best of all options · town pretty harbours, no Rome · chill high · logistics two half-days of driving each way

Book the Piombino–Portoferraio ferry ahead for the Sunday. Only works with the car.

If the family joinsPapa + Jakob & Raphi + baby → convenience wins
Sea 5 · Croatia, done the family way

Istria — a shared villa near Rovinj or Vrsar

Separate apartments under one roof, shared garden, pool and one long dinner table — exactly the setup for two couples, Papa and a baby. Pine-shaded pebble beaches ten minutes away, Rovinj for evening strolls, konoba dinners, and the shortest transfer of any sea option.

By car ~4½ heveryone arrives easily Sea ~24 °Cclear north Adriatic Shadepine belts along every beach Baby-proofvilla, kitchen, no transfers ~€900–1,400your share, split villa
Day plan, photos & caveats
  • Sa 29Descend, drive south — optional night in Trieste (you loved it; one night is its perfect dose).
  • Su 30Arrive at the villa; family trickles in; first grill.
  • Mo–FrBeach mornings under the pines (Zlatni Rt park in Rovinj, Vrsar coves), pool afternoons for the baby rhythm, Rovinj/Vrsar evenings, one Motovun-and-truffles day.
  • Su 6Drive home (~6 h).
Rovinj from the sea
Rovinj
Zlatni Rt beach
Zlatni Rt park beach
Pine-shaded cove near Rovinj
Pines to the water
Rovinj old town houses
Old-town evenings

Stay — Villa Rossella 1 (4 units + shared pool, 10 min walk to Rovinj), Istrian Villa IS148 (~€2,150/week, two stone houses, one courtyard pool — but 8.5 km inland), or 3 adjacent flats in Villas Rubin, 50 m from the pine beaches. True multi-unit agriturismo near Rovinj is rare — inland or resort is the trade.

Fit: beach pebble + rock, very clear · shade pines everywhere · town Rovinj is the prettiest on the Adriatic · family fits this exact group

Only runs if the family actually commits. Good multi-apartment villas for early September go fast — pre-filtered search.

Sea 6 · the family fallback

Kvarner riviera — Crikvenica / Selce

Same family logic, slightly different flavour: the old Austro-Hungarian bathing coast. Long seaside promenade for stroller laps and pebble collecting, gently shelving beaches for the baby, apartments a floor apart rather than a villa. Less chic than Istria, easier still.

By car ~4½ hmotorway almost door-to-door Sea ~24 °CKvarner bay Promenade10 km of waterfront walking ~€700–1,100your share
Day plan, photos & caveats
  • Sa 29Descend, drive via Villach and Ljubljana (~4½ h).
  • Su–SaBeach + promenade rhythm; one boat day to Krk or Rab; grilled fish evenings.
  • Su 6Home (~5½ h).
Crikvenica beach
Crikvenica town beach
Selce waterfront
Selce
Krk town
Krk town, boat day
Paradise beach, Lopar, Rab
Lopar sand, Rab boat day

Stay — multi-unit houses in Selce via adriatic.hr: House 23909 (sea 30 m, centre 100 m) or House 2381 (shared 300 m² garden with grill), ~€1,500–2,800/week total.

Fit: beach easy + baby-friendly · shade promenade trees, less wild pine · town pleasant, not magical · family lowest-friction of all

If the family scenario runs, Istria (S5) is the more special week for the same drive — this is the fallback if villa hunting fails.

Side by side

TrekDays / nightsSleeps up toCharacterHutsLogistics to the guide
A Lasörling4 days · 3 hut + 1 valley2,350 m (+ 3,098 m summit)Sunny balcony, lakes, Venediger viewsCosiest lineupBus to car, 1¼ h drive, Leitertal up
B Venediger Süd4 days · 3 hut + 1 valley2,600 m sleeping / 2,958 m walkingGlaciers close, three high passesSajathütte rooms ★Same valley, same simple drive
C Wiener HW5 days · 4 hut + booked Salmhütte2,508 m + five high nightsWildest, loneliest, toughestSimple & honestNone needed — ends at the Salmhütte
D Stüdlhütte3 days · 2 hut + 1 pension2,802 m — two nightsBase camp under the south faceModern, Lager onlyPerfect car loop from Lucknerhaus
SeaGetting thereWaterShadeTown factorBest if…
S1 Rome → Procida/IschiaNightjet down, fly back (2026 track works), car-freeTyrrhenian ~26°Gardens & pinesRome + island villages…it's the two of us and the journey should be part of the holiday
S2 Greek islandTrain home + fly, 1½ transit daysIonian, the clearestOlive grovesCorfu Town evening…pure sea quality outranks everything
S3 PugliaTrain home + fly BariSouth Adriatic, clearTowns yes, beaches openMonopoli, Polignano, Ostuni…"new Italy" and food are the point
S4 ElbaCar + 1 h ferryTuscan, excellentPines to the pebbles ★Pretty harbours…we keep the car and want wild coves
S5 Istria villaCar ~4½ h, everyoneN Adriatic, clearPine beltsRovinj ★…the family says yes
S6 KvarnerCar ~4½ hKvarner bayPromenade treesModest…family yes, villa hunt fails
My honest read

If you asked me to just decide

Trek: B — Venediger Höhenweg, by a nose over the Lasörling. Same valley, same cosy-hut culture, but it crosses two high passes and ends with a night in the Sajathütte’s proper rooms at 2,600 m. Take A for the gentler, sunnier line and the Lasörling summit — it was a good tip. C walks into the guide meeting with no car logistics at all, but it spends your comfort budget before the summit; D is the insurance pick if the weekend gets eaten by life.

Sea: settle the family question first. If they come: S5 Istria villa — Croatia-with-family is exactly the convenience case Johanna named. If it’s the two of you: S1 Rome → Procida/Ischia, now nearly tied with S2: 2026 track works reroute the night train via Wien and cancel the direct return, so S1’s edge shrinks to Rome, Naples coffee and no-airport-outbound, while S2 keeps the clearest water. S3 and S4 are strong seconds if new-Italy food or car-and-pines matter most.

Transport: it falls out of the sea choice. S1/S2/S3 → car-free: RJ 556 Wien 07:24 → Lienz 12:43 on the Saturday, buses reach every trailhead (951 Virgental incl. Ströden 4×/day, 942 Iselsberg, 951+952 to Kals/Lucknerhaus); back via Heiligenblut–Winklern–Lienz (~1¼ h) for the RJ 557 15:17 home. S4/S5/S6 → take the car, where D’s parking loop is the tidiest. The one combination to avoid: D’s car loop with a car-free sea plan.

Next moves

To-dos, in order