Booked ✓Guided ascent (Weg der Erstbesteiger) 27–28 Aug, 2 pers.Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte 27 Aug (via guide office)Salmhütte 26 + 28 AugGuide meets us at the Salmhütte, Thu 27 Aug 11:00–13:00
Pick a trek, pick a sea
The summit days in the middle are fixed either way.
Trek
Sea
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Decision one · Sa 22 → We 26 Aug
The warm-up trek
All four sleep high enough for acclimatisation, run three-plus contiguous hiking days, and reach the Salmhütte meeting on time. They differ in hut cosiness, wildness, and car logistics.
Four days on the sunny side of the Virgental with the Venediger glaciers as a permanent backdrop. Small, personal huts — two of them sit right at mountain lakes — and an optional 3,000 m summit, the Lasörling.
3 hut + 1 valley nightssleeps up to 2,350 m3–8 h daysred/black marked trailsLasörling 3,098 moptional summit day 2~€760huts + hotel, 2 pers.Routekomoot · virgental.at
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 22Drive Wien → Virgen (~4¾ h), Hüttentaxi/toll road to the Wetterkreuzhütte, then 1½ h on foot to the Zupalseehütte (2,350 m) at its lake (~4 h / 1,250 hm if you walk the whole way up).
Su 23Panorama traverse to the Lasörlinghütte (3 h) — out-and-back to the Lasörling, 3,098 m (~4½–5 h, easy scrambling near the top) — our acclimatisation summit, weather permitting.
Mo 24Past the Bergersee to the Lasnitzenhütte (~5–5¼ h; the Bergerseehütte splits it 3 h + 2¼ h).
Tu 25Over the Michltalscharte and the Rote Lenke (2,793 m, the day’s high point) to the Neue Reichenberger Hütte (2,586 m) at the Bödensee, descend to Ströden (~7½–8 h — the big day of this trek). Bus back to the car, drive to Heiligenblut — shower, real bed (Nationalpark Lodge or Hotel Kärntnerhof).
We 26Up the Leitertal to the Salmhütte (~5 h) on the first-ascenders' route.
Zupalseehütte above the VirgentalLasörling, 3,098 mBergersee-HütteNeue Reichenberger Hütte, 2,586 m
Fit: altitude good (sleeps 1,900–2,350 m + a 3,000er) · days 4 contiguous · huts the cosiest lineup of the four · logistics simple (1¼ h drive to Heiligenblut)
Time-critical: the Neue Reichenberger Hütte is nearly full 22–26 Aug (1 free bed on 22.08 as of 5 Jul — 100-year anniversary weekend). If A wins, book it first, today. The full first stage from Matrei is 8 h / 1,630 hm — we skip that by starting from Virgen. Zupalsee- and Lasörlinghütte have private rooms (~€66–79 p.p. half board); Lasnitzenhütte books by email (lasnitzenhuette@gmx.at), prices unpublished. Zupalsee, Lasnitzen: cash only.
Trek B · Virgental north side · the glacier balcony
Venediger Höhenweg Süd
The glacier side of the same valley: two passes near 2,800–2,950 m, four hut nights, and the last one at the Sajathütte, rebuilt with proper rooms at 2,600 m.
4 hut nightssleeps up to 2,600 m2½–4½ h daysone big final dayZopetscharte 2,958 mhighest walking point~€620huts, 2 pers.Routekomoot · alpenvereinaktiv
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 22Drive Wien → Ströden (~5 h), warm-up walk to the Essener-Rostocker Hütte (2,208 m, 2½ h).
Su 23Over the Türmljoch (2,772 m) to the Johannishütte (2,121 m, ~4 h) under the Großvenediger.
Mo 24Across the Zopetscharte (2,958 m) to the Eisseehütte (~4½ h; the descent is rope-secured for the first stretch).
Tu 25Short balcony leg via the Prägratner Höhenweg ("das Fenster") to the Sajathütte (2,600 m, ~2½ h) — real beds, free afternoon.
We 26The big day: down to Prägraten early (~2½ h), drive to Heiligenblut, up the Leitertal to the Salmhütte (~5 h).
Sajathütte, 2,600 mEssener-Rostocker Hütte, MaurertalGroßvenediger from the JohannishütteDorfertal, Johannishütte
Fit: altitude strong (sleeps 2,100–2,600 m, walks to 2,958 m) · days 4 contiguous · huts Sajathütte has private rooms · logistics Wednesday stacks descent + drive + 5 h ascent
The old Johannishütte → Sajathütte shortcut is permanently closed after rockfall — this plan routes the Sajathütte from the Eissee side, the standard connection. Zopetscharte wants good conditions. Booking quirks: Johannishütte is phone-only (+43 4877 5150), Lager only, hut sleeping bag mandatory; the Eisseehütte has exactly one double room (~€81 p.p. HP, cash only); Sajathütte double with half board €81 p.p.
Trek C · Schobergruppe · walks straight into the meeting point
Wiener Höhenweg
Five days through the wildest corner of the Hohe Tauern — blocky cirques, lake-side huts, hardly a soul. No car shuffling, no valley interlude, no shower either.
3 hut + 1 valley night + booked Salmhüttesleeps up to 2,508 m4–7 h daysSAC grade T3, partly cable-securedKeeskopf 3,081 moptional en route~€600huts, 2 pers.Routealpenvereinaktiv · bergwelten
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 22RJ 556 Wien 07:24 → Lienz 12:43 (direct), bus 942 at 12:55 → Iselsberg pass 13:13 (next bus 13:45 if the train is late). The Winklerner Hütte was full as of 6 Jul — sleep at the trailhead instead: Hotel Iselsbergerhof, directly at the bus stop and the trail start (1,204 m). Free afternoon, Dolomites view.
Su 23Stages 1+2 in one: past the Winklerner Hütte (2½ h — coffee stop on the terrace) and over the Obere Seescharte to the Wangenitzseehütte (2,508 m, ~6½ h and ~1,700 hm total), the highest lake basin in the group.
Mo 24To the Adolf-Noßberger-Hütte (4 h, grade T3) — the Keeskopf, 3,081 m is right there if legs agree.
We 26Long finale: over the Kesselkeessattel (2,926 m) and past the Peischlachtörl to the Glorer Hütte (~5 h; the hut stands directly on the Berger Törl), then an easy last leg to the Salmhütte (1½ h — ~7 h total, so start early). One wrinkle: trail 713 on the Peischlachtörl–Glorer stretch is closed after rockfall (since 2024); the signed Eselssteig detour costs no extra time — confirm with the hut wardens.
Wangenitzseehütte, 2,508 mNoßberger Hütte above the GradenseeSchobergruppeGlorer Hütte in the Berger Törl
Fit: altitude strong (five straight nights above 1,900 m) · days 5 contiguous · huts wild & simple rather than cosy · logistics no car moves — the trek is the approach
The most demanding option: grade-T3 terrain daily, five hut nights back-to-back, and the last day is the longest. If a storm eats a day there's no slack before the guide meeting.
Trek D · Kals · shortest, sleeps highest, neatest car loop
Stüdlhütte balcony
Keep the weekend in Vienna, then two nights at 2,802 m directly under the Glockner's south face — sleep-high acclimatisation — and cross the Berger Törl to the Salmhütte. After the tour we descend the same way to the car.
2 hut nightsboth at 2,802 m · Lager only2½–4 h dayseasiest of the fourCar loopLucknerhaus → Lucknerhaus~€460huts + pension, 2 pers.Routeoutdooractive (Stüdl → Glorer leg)
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 22Free weekend in Vienna — pack properly, sleep in our own bed.
Su 23Drive Wien → Kals am Großglockner (~5 h), pension night.
Mo 24Lucknerhaus → Stüdlhütte (2,802 m, 2½ h). Afternoon on the moraine paths.
Tu 25Day tour above the hut (towards the Fanatkogel, 2,905 m — blocky final metres, easy grade-I hands-on), second night at altitude.
We 26Over Berger Törl → Glorer Hütte → Salmhütte (~4 h, some wire-secured passages; the direct Pfortscharte route takes ~2–2½ h if you skip the Glorer Hütte).
Stüdlhütte, 2,802 mThe south face from the Lucknerhaus car parkKödnitztal meadowsIbex at the Stüdlhütte
Fit: altitude two nights at 2,802 m — highest sleeping of all · days 3 contiguous, on the short side · huts modern, excellent kitchen · logistics one parking spot, walk in, walk out
Less of a journey, more of a base camp — if "Hüttentour" means covering ground, this isn't it. Only works with a car.
Fixed · Th 27 → Sa 29 Aug · booked ✓
The summit days
Meet the guide at the Salmhütte Thursday 11:00–13:00, sleep at 3,454 m, stand on 3,798 m at dawn on Friday.
Th 27Salmhütte, 11:00–13:00: gear handover (helmet, harness, crampons included), then roped ascent to the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (3,454 m), ~3½ h. Austria's highest hut; short night.
Fr 28Pre-dawn start. Glocknerleitl, Kleinglockner, the Scharte — summit 3,798 m. Down to the Salmhütte by early afternoon; second booked night, no rush.
Sa 29Descend (Leitertal to Heiligenblut ~3½–4 h, Berger Törl to Lucknerhaus ~2½–3 h, or Stockerscharte to Glocknerhaus ~2½–3 h — matches wherever the car is). Car-free, the fast way home is the Mölltal, not Lienz: Bus 100 from Heiligenblut 11:50 or 13:50, change at Obervellach, rail from Mallnitz via Salzburg — Wien 17:32 / 19:32; last sensible chain 16:17 → 22:32. From the Glocknerhaus, Bus 119 at 11:23 joins the same chain. Via Kals (Bus 952 11:37/13:37 → Lienz) it’s Wien 19:07/20:36 — only worth it if the car is at the Lucknerhaus.
Salmhütte, 2,644 m — booked 26 + 28 AugErzherzog-Johann-Hütte, 3,454 mKleinglockner from the AdlersruheThe Glocknerleitl, summit day
Numbers for the cash envelope: guiding €430 p.p. + guide's half-board share €22.80 p.p. + EJH half-board ~€95 p.p. + Salmhütte ~€83 p.p./night with Alpenverein card. All paid in cash on the mountain — roughly €1,450 for the two of us. Guide contact arrives 4–7 days ahead; he has the final word on routing and weather.
Decision two · Sa 29 Aug → Su 6 Sep
The sea week
It forks on who comes: the two of us → Italy-with-good-sea or a Greek island; if Papa, Jakob, Raphi and the baby join → Croatia wins on convenience. The brief: a good beach, natural shade, shell-and-pebble walks, a town worth an evening, serious coffee.
Just the two of usquality sea, night train or flight welcome
Sea 1 · Johanna's night-train idea
Nightjet south: Rome, then Procida & Ischia
A night train south, two days in Rome, then an hour past Naples to pastel Procida and thermal Ischia. Lemon gardens for shade, volcanic coves for swimming.
Car-freeNightjet via Wien (2026 reroute)Sea ~25 °CTyrrhenian, early SeptShadegardens, pines, thermal parksCoffeeNaples espresso culture~€1,900–2,4002 pers., trains + 7 nights
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 29Descend to Heiligenblut, Bus 100 down the Mölltal (11:50 or 13:50), rail from Mallnitz via Salzburg — Wien 17:32 or 19:32. Own bed, repack.
Su 30Board the Nightjet, Wien 20:05. 2026 track works reroute it via the Brenner with a morning change in Bologna — Roma ~10:58.
Mo–TuRome from ~11:00: Pantheon, Trastevere evenings, Sant'Eustachio coffee. Two nights, no museum marathon.
We 2Frecciarossa Roma → Napoli (1 h 10), ferry to Procida or Ischia.
Th–FrIsland days: Chiaiolella beach, Ischia's thermal gardens, boat around the coves, granita, books.
Sa 5Full island day — the direct return night train doesn't run during the track works.
Su 6Fly Napoli → Wien (~1¾ h, Austrian daily) — or Sa-evening train to Bologna and the Nightjet from there.
Marina Corricella, ProcidaSant'Angelo, Ischia — car-freeMaronti beach, IschiaTrastevere, the Rome stop
Stay (ballparks, not 2026 quotes) — Procida: La Corricella (in the harbour, ~€140–190) or La Tonnara (on Chiaiolella beach); Ischia: Casa Celestino (car-free Sant'Angelo) or Apollon (inside the thermal park); Rome: Villa della Fonte (Trastevere).
Fit: beach real swimming, volcanic sand + pebble coves · shade natural · town Rome + island villages · chill two island moves; pick ONE island to fix that
2026 wrinkle: the Tarvisio line is closed 22 Aug–20 Sep, so no Villach boarding and no direct return — outbound goes via Wien/Brenner with a Bologna change; come home by plane or via Bologna. Already bookable: nightjet.com (2-bed sleeper from ~€178); island ferries frequent, ~06:00–22:00 (Caremar/SNAV from Molo Beverello). Early September: islands noticeably calmer than August.
Sea 2 · nonstop from Vienna
A Greek island — Kefalonia, Corfu or Kos
Fly from Vienna nonstop and buy the clearest sea of any option. Three islands fit the Su 30 → Su 6 window with direct flights.
Sa 29Descend, bus + rail via the Mölltal (Wien 17:32/19:32). Own bed, repack.
Su 30Fly Wien → the island (nonstops below), pick up the rental car, at the base by evening.
Mo–FrSix nights, one base. Swim, read, taverna, repeat. One boat or cove-hopping day.
Su 6Fly home — Kefalonia 15:55 (full last day) · Kos 10:00 · Corfu 07:00 Ryanair or 09:25 Austrian.
Kefalonia
Corfu
Kos
Flights Su 30 / Su 6 (p.p., 6 Jul)
OS 12:05→15:05 €159 / 15:55→16:55 €246 — Sunday-only rotation
FR 09:20→12:10 €77 / 07:00 €93, or OS back 09:25 €236
OS 05:50→09:10 €169 / 10:00→11:30 €199 — OS near-daily + FR
Base
Agia Efimia, harbour village
Kalami / NE coast
Mastichari, port village
Beach + shade
Antisamos pebbles, trees at the south end; Foki's cypress cove
Olive-shaded pebble coves
Tamarisks on white sand; dunes + pines at Marmari
Pebble collecting
White-pebble country ★
Classic pebble coves ★
Sand — shells at best
Coffee
Fior D'Amore on the harbour
Tavernas fine, no scene
Real café scene — in Kos Town, 20 min away
Crowd factor
Quietest, independent-traveler island
Mixed; NE coast stays calm
Most charter-heavy; Mastichari is the escape
Sea, early Sept
24–25 °C
~25 °C
26–27 °C ★
The catch
One flight pair a week — book early
07:00 return, or pay Austrian
Meltemi wind on north-coast afternoons into mid-Sept
Kefalonia — closest to the brief
Agia Efimia is a small working harbour with proper coffee and pebble coves in walking distance; Antisamos (10 min) has the green-amphitheatre swim, Myrtos is the photo stop (open again, no shade). Rental car needed; airport → base ~50 min after the 15:05 arrival.
Myrtos, the photo stopAssos villageAntisamos, 10 min from base
Stay — GreKa Ionian Suites (adult-oriented, sea-view suites, ~€90–150) or Moustakis Hotel (family-run, 80 m from the beach, ~€60–90, cash only).
Fit: beach pebbles + shade · town real harbour village · quiet quietest of the three · coffee on the harbour · flights Sunday-only — book early
Corfu — the cove classic, cheapest
The north-east corner: olive-shaded pebble coves from Kalami to Kassiopi, tavernas at the waterline, Corfu Town (UNESCO) for one evening. Ryanair both ways is ~€170 p.p. — the catch is the 07:00 Sunday return; Austrian's 09:25 fixes it for +€143.
Barbati beach, NE coastKassiopi harbourCorfu Town, one evening
Fit: beach outstanding coves · town Corfu Town evening · quiet NE coast calm · coffee taverna standard · flights cheap, but the 07:00 return
Kos — warmest sea, easiest flights, weakest fit
Mastichari is the one spot where a tamarisk-shaded beach fronts a real port village; Kefalos Bay (30 min) is the calm refuge when the meltemi blows. But it's a sand island — no pebble walks — and the rest of the coast is charter territory.
Fit: beach sand + tamarisk shade · town port village, cafés in Kos Town · quiet charter island, Mastichari excepted · pebbles sand — shells at best · flights most flexible, warmest sea
Sa evening + Su are transit, so all three are 6-night weeks. Prices are the 6 Jul Google-Flights surface, per person — Kefalonia's single weekly rotation is the one to book first if it wins. EFL · CFU · KGS
Sea 3 · new-to-both Italy
Puglia — Polignano & Monopoli
Johanna wants new spots in Italy. Fly to Bari, base in Monopoli's whitewashed old town, swim in Adriatic water that has nothing in common with Grado's, day-trip to Polignano's cliff coves and the Valle d'Itria.
Fly via Wien~1½ h to BariSea ~25 °Cclear south AdriaticTownsMonopoli, Polignano, OstuniCoffeeespresso freddo culture~€1,700–2,3002 pers., flights + 6 nights
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 29Descend, bus + rail via the Mölltal → Wien by ~17:30.
Su 30Fly Wien → Bari (Ryanair 06:10 daily or Austrian Su morning, ~1½ h), local train to Monopoli (30 min).
Mo–FrCala Porta Vecchia mornings, old-town evenings. One day Polignano a Mare, one day inland (Ostuni or the trulli), rest: beach.
Su 6Fly home.
Lama Monachile, PolignanoMonopoli old townThe old harbourOstuni, day-trip
Fit: beach lovely coves + sand nearby · shade town yes, beaches are umbrella country · town several gems · chill high · logistics same 1½-day backtrack as Greece
Natural shade is the weak point — Puglia’s beaches are open. If the shade requirement is hard, S1 or S2 serve it better. Flights: Wien → Bari.
Sea 4 · Italy with the car
Elba
If we want the car with us and still refuse to compromise on water: drive down through the Dolomites, hop the one-hour ferry at Piombino, and spend the week cove-hopping an island where pine forest reaches the pebbles.
By car~7 h + 1 h ferrySea ~25 °CTuscan archipelagoShadepines to the beach edgePebble + sand covesPaolina, Sansone, Fetovaia~€1,500–2,0002 pers., ferry + 6 nights
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 29Descend to the car, drive south, sleep around Verona/Bologna.
Su 30On to Piombino, ferry to Portoferraio, settle on the west coast (Marciana Marina side).
Mo–FrA different cove every day — Paolina, Sansone, Fetovaia — plus one Monte Capanne cable-car evening for the full-circle mountain view of the sea.
Sa 5Ferry back, drive to South Tyrol, last mountain dinner.
Su 6Home over the Brenner.
Paolina and its isletFetovaiaSansone — white pebblesMarciana Marina, the base
Stay — Hotel Marinella (on the Marciana Marina promenade, ~€120–230), Marina Garden (shaded garden + pool), or Hotel del Golfo on Procchio's sand, 2 km from the Paolina cove.
Fit: beach superb · shade pines, the best of all options · town pretty harbours, no Rome · chill high · logistics two half-days of driving each way
If the family joinsPapa + Jakob & Raphi + baby → convenience wins
Sea 5 · Croatia, done the family way
Istria — a shared villa near Rovinj or Vrsar
Separate apartments under one roof, shared garden, pool and one long dinner table — exactly the setup for two couples, Papa and a baby. Pine-shaded pebble beaches ten minutes away, Rovinj for evening strolls, konoba dinners.
By car ~4½ heveryone arrives easilySea ~24 °Cclear north AdriaticShadepine belts along every beachBaby-proofvilla, kitchen, no transfers~€900–1,400your share, split villa
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 29Descend, drive south — optional night in Trieste (you loved it).
Su 30Arrive at the villa; family trickles in; first grill.
Mo–FrBeach mornings under the pines (Zlatni Rt park in Rovinj, Vrsar coves), pool afternoons for the baby rhythm, Rovinj/Vrsar evenings, one Motovun-and-truffles day.
Su 6Drive home (~6 h).
RovinjZlatni Rt park beachPines to the waterOld-town evenings
Stay — Villa Rossella 1 (4 units + shared pool, 10 min walk to Rovinj), Istrian Villa IS148 (~€2,150/week, two stone houses, one courtyard pool — but 8.5 km inland), or 3 adjacent flats in Villas Rubin, 50 m from the pine beaches. True multi-unit agriturismo near Rovinj is rare — inland or resort is the trade.
Fit: beach pebble + rock, very clear · shade pines everywhere · town Rovinj · family fits this exact group
Only runs if the family actually commits. Good multi-apartment villas for early September go fast — pre-filtered search.
Sea 6 · the family fallback
Kvarner riviera — Crikvenica / Selce
Same family logic: the old Austro-Hungarian bathing coast. Long seaside promenade for stroller laps and pebble collecting, gently shelving beaches for the baby, apartments a floor apart rather than a villa. Less chic than Istria, easier still.
By car ~4½ hmotorway almost door-to-doorSea ~24 °CKvarner bayPromenade10 km of waterfront walking~€700–1,100your share
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 29Descend, drive via Villach and Ljubljana (~4½ h).
Su–SaBeach + promenade rhythm; one boat day to Krk or Rab; grilled fish evenings.
Su 6Home (~5½ h).
Crikvenica town beachSelceKrk town, boat dayLopar sand, Rab boat day
Stay — multi-unit houses in Selce via adriatic.hr: House 23909 (sea 30 m, centre 100 m) or House 2381 (shared 300 m² garden with grill), ~€1,500–2,800/week total.
Fit: beach easy + baby-friendly · shade promenade trees, less wild pine · town pleasant, not magical · family lowest-friction of all
If the family scenario runs, Istria (S5) is the more special week for the same drive — this is the fallback if villa hunting fails.
Side by side
Trek
Days / nights
Sleeps up to
Character
Huts
Logistics to the guide
A Lasörling
4 days · 3 hut + 1 valley
2,350 m (+ 3,098 m summit)
Sunny balcony, lakes, Venediger views
Cosiest lineup
Bus to car, 1¼ h drive, Leitertal up
B Venediger Süd
4 days · 3 hut + 1 valley
2,600 m sleeping / 2,958 m walking
Glaciers close, three high passes
Sajathütte rooms ★
Same valley, same simple drive
C Wiener HW
5 days · 3 hut + 1 valley + booked Salmhütte
2,508 m + five high nights
Wildest, loneliest, toughest
Wild & simple
None needed — ends at the Salmhütte
D Stüdlhütte
3 days · 2 hut + 1 pension
2,802 m — two nights
Base camp under the south face
Modern, Lager only
Perfect car loop from Lucknerhaus
Sea
Getting there
Water
Shade
Town factor
Best if…
S1 Rome → Procida/Ischia
Nightjet down, fly back (2026 track works), car-free
Tyrrhenian ~26°
Gardens & pines
Rome + island villages
…it's the two of us and the journey should be part of the holiday
S2 Greek island
Train home + fly nonstop (Kefalonia / Corfu / Kos)
Ionian/Aegean
Olives, cypress, tamarisks
Agia Efimia · Corfu Town · Kos Town
…pure sea quality outranks everything
S3 Puglia
Train home + fly Bari
South Adriatic, clear
Towns yes, beaches open
Monopoli, Polignano, Ostuni
…"new Italy" and food are the point
S4 Elba
Car + 1 h ferry
Tuscan, excellent
Pines to the pebbles ★
Pretty harbours
…we keep the car and want wild coves
S5 Istria villa
Car ~4½ h, everyone
N Adriatic, clear
Pine belts
Rovinj ★
…the family says yes
S6 Kvarner
Car ~4½ h
Kvarner bay
Promenade trees
Modest
…family yes, villa hunt fails
If you asked me to just decide
Trek:B — Venediger Höhenweg, by a nose over the Lasörling. Same valley, same cosy-hut culture, but it crosses two high passes and ends with a night in the Sajathütte’s proper rooms at 2,600 m. Take A for the gentler, sunnier line and the Lasörling summit — it was a good tip. C walks into the guide meeting with no car logistics at all, but it spends your comfort budget before the summit; D is the insurance pick if the weekend gets eaten by life.
Sea: settle the family question first. If they come: S5 Istria villa — Croatia-with-family is exactly the convenience case Johanna named. If it’s the two of you: S1 Rome → Procida/Ischia, now nearly tied with S2: 2026 track works reroute the night train via Wien and cancel the direct return, so S1’s edge shrinks to Rome, Naples coffee and no-airport-outbound, while S2 keeps the clearest water. S3 and S4 are strong seconds if new-Italy food or car-and-pines matter most.
Transport: it falls out of the sea choice. S1/S2/S3 → car-free: RJ 556 Wien 07:24 → Lienz 12:43 on the Saturday, buses reach every trailhead (951 Virgental incl. Ströden 4×/day, 942 Iselsberg 12:55 right after the RJ, 951+952 to Kals/Lucknerhaus); back from Heiligenblut via the Mölltal (Bus 100 11:50/13:50, rail from Mallnitz via Salzburg — Wien 17:32/19:32; the Lienz RJ 557 15:17 → 20:36 also works but is ~3 h slower door to door). S4/S5/S6 → take the car, where D’s parking loop is the tidiest. The one combination to avoid: D’s car loop with a car-free sea plan.
To-dos, in order
Done ✓Guide booked 27–28 Aug · EJH reserved · Salmhütte booked 26 + 28 Aug
Jo + JaAsk Papa, Jakob & Raphi about the sea week — by mid-July. This forks the whole second half.
Jo + JaPick the trek this week, then book its huts immediately — every hut is linked in its day plan. Trek A hangs on the Neue Reichenberger Hütte (1 free bed 22.08 as of 5 Jul); treks B–D have slack. Ask for private rooms at Sajat-/Zupalsee-/Lasörlinghütte.
JaAlpenverein membership for both — €12 off per hut night and, more to the point, mountain-rescue insurance. Cards in the packs.
Jo + JaBook the sea leg the day the family answers: Nightjet 30 Aug is on sale now (S1), September flights (S2/S3) and villas (S5) go fast; Elba car-ferry slot (S4) is bookable now too.
JaGear check against the guide's packing list — category B/C boots (stiff, crampon-compatible) are mandatory; helmet/harness/crampons are provided at the Salmhütte.
Jo + JaCash: ~€1,450 for the summit block + hut money for the trek.
JaCloser to the date: watch the forecast (chip above goes live ~13 Aug) and expect the guide's call 4–7 days out.