Booked ✓Guided ascent (Weg der Erstbesteiger) 27–28 Aug, 2 pers.Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte 27 Aug (via guide office)Salmhütte 26 + 28 AugGuide meets us at the Salmhütte, Thu 27 Aug 11:00–13:00
Interactive plan
Pick a trek, pick a sea
Nothing is pre-selected; the summit days in the middle are fixed either way. Details for every option are in the cards below.
Trek
Sea
Picks are saved in the page address — copy the URL to share an exact combination.
Pins are town-level. Faint pins = candidates; the line lights up for your current combination.
Decision one · Sa 22 → We 26 Aug
The warm-up trek
All four sleep high enough for acclimatisation, run three-plus contiguous hiking days, and reach the Salmhütte meeting on time. They differ in hut cosiness, wildness, and car logistics.
Four days on the sunny side of the Virgental with the Venediger glaciers as a permanent backdrop. Small, personal huts — two of them sit right at mountain lakes — and an optional 3,000 m summit, the Lasörling.
3 hut + 1 valley nightssleeps up to 2,350 m3–6 h daysred/black marked trailsLasörling 3,098 moptional summit day 2~€760huts + hotel, 2 pers.Routekomoot · virgental.at
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 22Drive Wien → Virgen (~4¾ h), walk up via Wetterkreuzhütte to the Zupalseehütte (2,350 m) at its lake.
Su 23Panorama traverse to the Lasörlinghütte (3 h) — out-and-back to the Lasörling, 3,098 m (~4½–5 h, easy scrambling near the top) — our acclimatisation summit, weather permitting.
Mo 24Past the Bergersee to the Lasnitzenhütte (~4½ h), the gentlest day.
Tu 25Over the Michltalscharte to the Neue Reichenberger Hütte (2,586 m) at the Bödensee, descend to Ströden (6–6½ h). Bus back to the car, drive to Heiligenblut — shower, real bed (Nationalpark Lodge or Hotel Kärntnerhof).
We 26Up the Leitertal to the Salmhütte (~5 h) on the first-ascenders' route.
Zupalseehütte above the VirgentalLasörling, 3,098 mBergersee-HütteNeue Reichenberger Hütte, 2,586 m
Fit: altitude good (sleeps 1,900–2,350 m + a 3,000er) · days 4 contiguous · huts the cosiest lineup of the four · logistics simple (1¼ h drive to Heiligenblut)
Time-critical: the Neue Reichenberger Hütte is nearly full 22–26 Aug (1 free bed on 22.08 as of 5 Jul — 100-year anniversary weekend). If A wins, book it first, today. The full first stage from Matrei is 8 h / 1,630 hm — we skip that by starting from Virgen. Zupalsee- and Lasörlinghütte have private rooms (~€66–79 p.p. half board); Lasnitzenhütte books by email (lasnitzenhuette@gmx.at), prices unpublished. Zupalsee, Lasnitzen: cash only.
Trek B · Virgental north side · the glacier balcony
Venediger Höhenweg Süd
The glacier side of the same valley: two passes near 2,800–2,950 m, four hut nights, and the last one at the Sajathütte, rebuilt with proper rooms at 2,600 m.
4 hut nightssleeps up to 2,600 m2½–4½ h daysone big final dayZopetscharte 2,958 mhighest walking point~€620huts, 2 pers.Routekomoot · alpenvereinaktiv
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 22Drive Wien → Ströden (~5 h), warm-up walk to the Essener-Rostocker Hütte (2,208 m, 2½ h).
Su 23Over the Türmljoch (2,772 m) to the Johannishütte (2,121 m, ~4 h) under the Großvenediger.
Mo 24Across the Zopetscharte (2,958 m) to the Eisseehütte (~4½ h; the descent is rope-secured for the first stretch).
Tu 25Short balcony leg via the Prägratner Höhenweg ("das Fenster") to the Sajathütte (2,600 m, ~2½ h) — real beds, free afternoon.
We 26The big day: down to Prägraten early (~2½ h), drive to Heiligenblut, up the Leitertal to the Salmhütte (~5 h).
Sajathütte, 2,600 mEssener-Rostocker Hütte, MaurertalGroßvenediger from the JohannishütteDorfertal, Johannishütte
Fit: altitude strong (sleeps 2,100–2,600 m, walks to 2,958 m) · days 4 contiguous · huts Sajathütte has private rooms · logistics Wednesday stacks descent + drive + 5 h ascent
The old Johannishütte → Sajathütte shortcut is permanently closed after rockfall — this plan routes the Sajathütte from the Eissee side, the standard connection. Zopetscharte wants good conditions. Booking quirks: Johannishütte is phone-only (+43 4877 5150), Lager only, hut sleeping bag mandatory; the Eisseehütte has exactly one double room (~€81 p.p. HP, cash only); Sajathütte double with half board €81 p.p.
Trek C · Schobergruppe · walks straight into the meeting point
Wiener Höhenweg
Five days through the wildest, emptiest corner of the Hohe Tauern — blocky cirques, lake-side huts, hardly a soul. No car shuffling, no valley interlude, no shower either.
4 hut nights + booked Salmhüttesleeps up to 2,508 m2½–7 h daysSAC grade T3, partly cable-securedKeeskopf 3,081 moptional en route~€600huts, 2 pers.Routealpenvereinaktiv · bergwelten
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 22To Lienz (train or car), bus to Iselsberg, up to the Winklerner Hütte (2½ h) — gentle start.
Su 23Over the Seescharte to the Wangenitzseehütte (2,508 m, 4 h), the highest lake basin in the group.
Mo 24To the Adolf-Noßberger-Hütte (4 h, grade T3) — the Keeskopf, 3,081 m is right there if legs agree.
Wangenitzseehütte, 2,508 mNoßberger Hütte above the GradenseeSchobergruppeGlorer Hütte in the Berger Törl
Fit: altitude strong (five straight nights above 1,900 m) · days 5 contiguous · huts wild & simple rather than cosy · logistics no car moves — the trek is the approach
The most demanding option: grade-T3 terrain daily, five hut nights back-to-back, and the last day is the longest. If a storm eats a day there's no slack before the guide meeting.
Trek D · Kals · shortest, sleeps highest, neatest car loop
Stüdlhütte balcony
Keep the weekend in Vienna, then two nights at 2,802 m directly under the Glockner's south face — sleep-high acclimatisation — and stroll over the Berger Törl to the Salmhütte. After the tour we descend the same way to the car.
2 hut nightsboth at 2,802 m · Lager only2½–4 h dayseasiest of the fourCar loopLucknerhaus → Lucknerhaus~€460huts + pension, 2 pers.Routeoutdooractive (Stüdl → Glorer leg)
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 22Free weekend in Vienna — pack properly, sleep in our own bed.
Su 23Drive Wien → Kals am Großglockner (~5 h), pension night.
Mo 24Lucknerhaus → Stüdlhütte (2,802 m, 2½ h). Afternoon on the moraine paths.
Tu 25Day tour above the hut (towards the Fanatkogel, 2,905 m), second night at altitude.
We 26Over Berger Törl → Glorer Hütte → Salmhütte (~3½–4 h, some wire-secured passages).
Stüdlhütte, 2,802 mThe south face from the Lucknerhaus car parkKödnitztal meadowsThe neighbours
Fit: altitude two nights at 2,802 m — highest sleeping of all · days 3 contiguous, on the short side · huts modern, excellent kitchen · logistics one parking spot, walk in, walk out
Less of a journey, more of a base camp — if "Hüttentour" means covering ground, this isn't it. Only shines with a car (the loop is the point).
Fixed · Th 27 → Sa 29 Aug · booked ✓
The summit days
Meet the guide at the Salmhütte Thursday 11:00–13:00, sleep at 3,454 m, stand on 3,798 m at dawn on Friday.
Th 27Salmhütte, 11:00–13:00: gear handover (helmet, harness, crampons included), then roped ascent to the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte (3,454 m), ~3½ h. Austria's highest hut; short night.
Fr 28Pre-dawn start. Glocknerleitl, Kleinglockner, the Scharte — summit 3,798 m. Down to the Salmhütte by early afternoon; second booked night, no rush.
Sa 29Easy descent (Leitertal to Heiligenblut ~3 h, or Berger Törl to Lucknerhaus ~3 h, or Stockerscharte to Glocknerhaus ~3 h — matches wherever the car is, or the bus).
Salmhütte, 2,644 m — booked 26 + 28 AugErzherzog-Johann-Hütte, 3,454 mKleinglockner from the AdlersruheThe Glocknerleitl, summit day
Numbers for the cash envelope: guiding €430 p.p. + guide's half-board share €22.80 p.p. + EJH half-board ~€95 p.p. + Salmhütte ~€83 p.p./night with Alpenverein card. All paid in cash on the mountain — roughly €1,450 for the two of us. Guide contact arrives 4–7 days ahead; he has the final word on routing and weather.
Decision two · Sa 29 Aug → Su 6 Sep
The sea week
It forks on who comes: the two of us → Italy-with-good-sea or a Greek island; if Papa, Jakob, Raphi and the baby join → Croatia wins on convenience. The brief: a genuinely nice beach, natural shade, shell-and-pebble walks, a town worth an evening, serious coffee.
A night train south, two days in Rome, then an hour past Naples to pastel Procida and thermal Ischia. Lemon gardens for shade, volcanic coves for swimming.
Car-freeNightjet via Wien (2026 reroute)Sea ~25 °CTyrrhenian, early SeptShadegardens, pines, thermal parksCoffeeNaples espresso culture~€1,900–2,4002 pers., trains + 7 nights
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 29Descend, bus to Lienz, Railjet 15:17 → Wien 20:36. Own bed, repack.
Su 30Board the Nightjet, Wien 20:05. 2026 track works reroute it via the Brenner with a morning change in Bologna — Roma ~10:58.
Mo–TuRome from ~11:00: Pantheon, Trastevere evenings, Sant'Eustachio coffee. Two nights, no museum marathon.
We 2Frecciarossa Roma → Napoli (1 h 10), ferry to Procida or Ischia.
Th–FrIsland days: Chiaiolella beach, Ischia's thermal gardens, boat around the coves, granita, books.
Sa 5Full island day — the direct return night train doesn't run during the track works.
Su 6Fly Napoli → Wien (~1¾ h, Austrian daily) — or Sa-evening train to Bologna and the Nightjet from there.
Marina Corricella, ProcidaSant'Angelo, Ischia — car-freeMaronti beach, IschiaTrastevere, the Rome stop
Stay (ballparks, not 2026 quotes) — Procida: La Corricella (in the harbour, ~€140–190) or La Tonnara (on Chiaiolella beach); Ischia: Casa Celestino (car-free Sant'Angelo) or Apollon (inside the thermal park); Rome: Villa della Fonte (Trastevere).
Fit: beach real swimming, volcanic sand + pebble coves · shade natural · town Rome + island villages · chill two island moves; pick ONE island to fix that
2026 wrinkle: the Tarvisio line is closed 22 Aug–20 Sep, so no Villach boarding and no direct return — outbound goes via Wien/Brenner with a Bologna change; come home by plane or via Bologna. Already bookable: nightjet.com (2-bed sleeper from ~€178); island ferries frequent, ~06:00–22:00 (Caremar/SNAV from Molo Beverello). Early September: islands noticeably calmer than August.
Sea 2 · the best water on this page
A Greek island — Corfu, say
Fly from Vienna and buy the clearest sea of any option: olive-shaded pebble coves on Corfu's north-east, slow tavernas, and exactly nothing on the programme.
Fly via WienAustrian daily + Ryanair Tu/Fr/SuSea ~25 °CIonian, glass-clearShadeolive groves to the waterlinePebble walksJohanna's collecting habitat~€1,800–2,5002 pers., flights + 6 nights
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 29Descend, afternoon Railjet Lienz → Wien (15:17, ~5¼ h). Own bed, repack from crampons to flip-flops.
Su 30Fly Wien → Corfu: Ryanair Su 09:20→12:10 or Austrian daily (~1¾ h). Zakynthos/Kos work too.
Mo–FrSix nights, one base: Kalami / Agios Stefanos side. Swim, read, taverna, repeat. One boat day around the coves.
Su 6Fly home.
Barbati beach, NE coastKassiopi harbourKassiopiCorfu Town, one evening
Fit: beach outstanding · shade olives + tavernas · town Corfu Town (UNESCO) for one evening · chill maximum once there · logistics 1½ travel days each way counts against the week
Sa evening + Su are pure transit, so it is a 6-night week. September schedules thin out — check flights before deciding.
Sea 3 · new-to-both Italy
Puglia — Polignano & Monopoli
Johanna wants new spots in Italy. Fly to Bari, base in Monopoli's whitewashed old town, swim in Adriatic water that has nothing in common with Grado's, day-trip to Polignano's cliff coves and the Valle d'Itria. Best food-per-euro on the page.
Fly via Wien~1½ h to BariSea ~25 °Cclear south AdriaticTownsMonopoli, Polignano, OstuniCoffeeespresso freddo culture~€1,700–2,3002 pers., flights + 6 nights
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 29Descend, train Lienz → Wien.
Su 30Fly Wien → Bari (Ryanair 06:10 daily or Austrian Su morning, ~1½ h), local train to Monopoli (30 min).
Mo–FrCala Porta Vecchia mornings, old-town evenings. One day Polignano a Mare, one day inland (Ostuni or the trulli), rest: beach.
Su 6Fly home.
Lama Monachile, PolignanoMonopoli old townThe old harbourOstuni, day-trip
Fit: beach lovely coves + sand nearby · shade town yes, beaches are umbrella country · town several gems · chill high · logistics same 1½-day backtrack as Greece
Natural shade is the weak point — Puglia’s beaches are open. If the shade requirement is hard, S1 or S2 serve it better. Flights: Wien → Bari.
Sea 4 · the car-compatible Italy wildcard
Elba
If we want the car with us and still refuse to compromise on water: drive down through the Dolomites, hop the one-hour ferry at Piombino, and spend the week cove-hopping an island where pine forest reaches the pebbles.
By car~7 h + 1 h ferrySea ~25 °CTuscan archipelagoShadepines to the beach edgePebble + sand covescollecting paradise~€1,500–2,0002 pers., ferry + 6 nights
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 29Descend to the car, drive south, sleep around Verona/Bologna.
Su 30On to Piombino, ferry to Portoferraio, settle on the west coast (Marciana Marina side).
Mo–FrA different cove every day — Paolina, Sansone, Fetovaia — plus one Monte Capanne cable-car evening for the full-circle mountain view of the sea.
Sa 5Ferry back, drive to South Tyrol, last mountain dinner.
Su 6Home over the Brenner.
Paolina and its isletFetovaiaSansone — white pebblesMarciana Marina, the base
Stay — Hotel Marinella (on the Marciana Marina promenade, ~€120–230), Marina Garden (shaded garden + pool), or Hotel del Golfo on Procchio's sand, 2 km from the Paolina cove.
Fit: beach superb · shade pines, the best of all options · town pretty harbours, no Rome · chill high · logistics two half-days of driving each way
If the family joinsPapa + Jakob & Raphi + baby → convenience wins
Sea 5 · Croatia, done the family way
Istria — a shared villa near Rovinj or Vrsar
Separate apartments under one roof, shared garden, pool and one long dinner table — exactly the setup for two couples, Papa and a baby. Pine-shaded pebble beaches ten minutes away, Rovinj for evening strolls, konoba dinners, and the shortest transfer of any sea option.
By car ~4½ heveryone arrives easilySea ~24 °Cclear north AdriaticShadepine belts along every beachBaby-proofvilla, kitchen, no transfers~€900–1,400your share, split villa
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 29Descend, drive south — optional night in Trieste (you loved it; one night is its perfect dose).
Su 30Arrive at the villa; family trickles in; first grill.
Mo–FrBeach mornings under the pines (Zlatni Rt park in Rovinj, Vrsar coves), pool afternoons for the baby rhythm, Rovinj/Vrsar evenings, one Motovun-and-truffles day.
Su 6Drive home (~6 h).
RovinjZlatni Rt park beachPines to the waterOld-town evenings
Stay — Villa Rossella 1 (4 units + shared pool, 10 min walk to Rovinj), Istrian Villa IS148 (~€2,150/week, two stone houses, one courtyard pool — but 8.5 km inland), or 3 adjacent flats in Villas Rubin, 50 m from the pine beaches. True multi-unit agriturismo near Rovinj is rare — inland or resort is the trade.
Fit: beach pebble + rock, very clear · shade pines everywhere · town Rovinj is the prettiest on the Adriatic · family fits this exact group
Only runs if the family actually commits. Good multi-apartment villas for early September go fast — pre-filtered search.
Sea 6 · the family fallback
Kvarner riviera — Crikvenica / Selce
Same family logic, slightly different flavour: the old Austro-Hungarian bathing coast. Long seaside promenade for stroller laps and pebble collecting, gently shelving beaches for the baby, apartments a floor apart rather than a villa. Less chic than Istria, easier still.
By car ~4½ hmotorway almost door-to-doorSea ~24 °CKvarner bayPromenade10 km of waterfront walking~€700–1,100your share
Day plan, photos & caveats
Sa 29Descend, drive via Villach and Ljubljana (~4½ h).
Su–SaBeach + promenade rhythm; one boat day to Krk or Rab; grilled fish evenings.
Su 6Home (~5½ h).
Crikvenica town beachSelceKrk town, boat dayLopar sand, Rab boat day
Stay — multi-unit houses in Selce via adriatic.hr: House 23909 (sea 30 m, centre 100 m) or House 2381 (shared 300 m² garden with grill), ~€1,500–2,800/week total.
Fit: beach easy + baby-friendly · shade promenade trees, less wild pine · town pleasant, not magical · family lowest-friction of all
If the family scenario runs, Istria (S5) is the more special week for the same drive — this is the fallback if villa hunting fails.
Side by side
Trek
Days / nights
Sleeps up to
Character
Huts
Logistics to the guide
A Lasörling
4 days · 3 hut + 1 valley
2,350 m (+ 3,098 m summit)
Sunny balcony, lakes, Venediger views
Cosiest lineup
Bus to car, 1¼ h drive, Leitertal up
B Venediger Süd
4 days · 3 hut + 1 valley
2,600 m sleeping / 2,958 m walking
Glaciers close, three high passes
Sajathütte rooms ★
Same valley, same simple drive
C Wiener HW
5 days · 4 hut + booked Salmhütte
2,508 m + five high nights
Wildest, loneliest, toughest
Simple & honest
None needed — ends at the Salmhütte
D Stüdlhütte
3 days · 2 hut + 1 pension
2,802 m — two nights
Base camp under the south face
Modern, Lager only
Perfect car loop from Lucknerhaus
Sea
Getting there
Water
Shade
Town factor
Best if…
S1 Rome → Procida/Ischia
Nightjet down, fly back (2026 track works), car-free
Tyrrhenian ~26°
Gardens & pines
Rome + island villages
…it's the two of us and the journey should be part of the holiday
S2 Greek island
Train home + fly, 1½ transit days
Ionian, the clearest
Olive groves
Corfu Town evening
…pure sea quality outranks everything
S3 Puglia
Train home + fly Bari
South Adriatic, clear
Towns yes, beaches open
Monopoli, Polignano, Ostuni
…"new Italy" and food are the point
S4 Elba
Car + 1 h ferry
Tuscan, excellent
Pines to the pebbles ★
Pretty harbours
…we keep the car and want wild coves
S5 Istria villa
Car ~4½ h, everyone
N Adriatic, clear
Pine belts
Rovinj ★
…the family says yes
S6 Kvarner
Car ~4½ h
Kvarner bay
Promenade trees
Modest
…family yes, villa hunt fails
My honest read
If you asked me to just decide
Trek:B — Venediger Höhenweg, by a nose over the Lasörling. Same valley, same cosy-hut culture, but it crosses two high passes and ends with a night in the Sajathütte’s proper rooms at 2,600 m. Take A for the gentler, sunnier line and the Lasörling summit — it was a good tip. C walks into the guide meeting with no car logistics at all, but it spends your comfort budget before the summit; D is the insurance pick if the weekend gets eaten by life.
Sea: settle the family question first. If they come: S5 Istria villa — Croatia-with-family is exactly the convenience case Johanna named. If it’s the two of you: S1 Rome → Procida/Ischia, now nearly tied with S2: 2026 track works reroute the night train via Wien and cancel the direct return, so S1’s edge shrinks to Rome, Naples coffee and no-airport-outbound, while S2 keeps the clearest water. S3 and S4 are strong seconds if new-Italy food or car-and-pines matter most.
Transport: it falls out of the sea choice. S1/S2/S3 → car-free: RJ 556 Wien 07:24 → Lienz 12:43 on the Saturday, buses reach every trailhead (951 Virgental incl. Ströden 4×/day, 942 Iselsberg, 951+952 to Kals/Lucknerhaus); back via Heiligenblut–Winklern–Lienz (~1¼ h) for the RJ 557 15:17 home. S4/S5/S6 → take the car, where D’s parking loop is the tidiest. The one combination to avoid: D’s car loop with a car-free sea plan.
Next moves
To-dos, in order
Done ✓Guide booked 27–28 Aug · EJH reserved · Salmhütte booked 26 + 28 Aug
Jo + JaAsk Papa, Jakob & Raphi about the sea week — by mid-July. This forks the whole second half.
Jo + JaPick the trek this week, then book its huts immediately — every hut is linked in its day plan. Trek A hangs on the Neue Reichenberger Hütte (1 free bed 22.08 as of 5 Jul); treks B–D have slack. Ask for private rooms at Sajat-/Zupalsee-/Lasörlinghütte.
JaAlpenverein membership for both — €12 off per hut night and, more to the point, mountain-rescue insurance. Cards in the packs.
Jo + JaBook the sea leg the day the family answers: Nightjet 30 Aug is on sale now (S1), September flights (S2/S3) and villas (S5) go fast; Elba car-ferry slot (S4) is bookable now too.
JaGear check against the guide's packing list — category B/C boots (stiff, crampon-compatible) are mandatory; helmet/harness/crampons are provided at the Salmhütte.
Jo + JaCash: ~€1,450 for the summit block + hut money for the trek — the mountains don't take cards.
JaCloser to the date: watch the forecast (chip above goes live ~13 Aug) and expect the guide's call 4–7 days out.